Most visitors to Luxor’s West Bank see the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut’s temple and the Colossi of Memnon, then leave. A few minutes south lie two sites that many Egyptologists love most: the temple of Medinet Habu and the Valley of the Queens. They are quieter, often better preserved, and easy to add after a balloon flight.
Medinet Habu
Medinet Habu is the mortuary temple of Ramesses III, one of the last great pharaohs of the New Kingdom, who ruled in the 12th century BC. It is enormous, walled like a fortress, and its colour has survived remarkably well.
What to look for
- The Migdol gate, built like a Syrian fortress tower, unusual in Egypt.
- The first pylon, with huge reliefs of the king smiting his enemies.
- The Sea Peoples reliefs on the outer north wall, among the most important historical records of the late Bronze Age, showing land and naval battles.
- The second court, where original blue, red and yellow paint survives on the ceilings and columns.
- Later history: the temple compound became a town in Coptic times, and traces of it remain.
Allow an hour, more if you love reliefs. It is rarely crowded, even in high season.
The Valley of the Queens
Called Ta-Set-Neferu in ancient times, the Valley of the Queens holds tombs of royal wives, princes and princesses. Its most famous tomb is that of Nefertari, favourite wife of Ramesses II, often described as the most beautiful painted tomb in Egypt. It requires a separate, premium ticket, and visitor numbers and time inside are limited to protect the paintings.
Other tombs worth seeing
- Amenherkhepshef, a son of Ramesses III, with vivid colours
- Khaemwaset, another son of Ramesses III
- Queen Tyti, with fine painted scenes
Which tombs are open rotates, so check on the day.
From the balloon
When the wind carries the balloons south, Medinet Habu’s massive rectangular enclosure is clearly visible against the fields. The Valley of the Queens sits in the desert hills behind it. Our article on what you see from a balloon explains the usual route.
Practical tips
- Go in the morning. After a sunrise flight you are already on the West Bank.
- Tickets are bought on site; check current prices, and note Nefertari’s tomb is priced separately.
- Bring water and a hat. There is little shade in the Valley of the Queens.
- Photography rules inside tombs change; ask at the ticket office.
Fitting it into your trip
Medinet Habu fits easily into day three of our Luxor three-day itinerary. For a private, unhurried day, the private balloon and photography tour can include it.
Frequently asked questions
Is Nefertari’s tomb worth the extra ticket?
For most visitors with an interest in ancient art, yes. It is one of the finest painted tombs ever discovered.
How far is Medinet Habu from the Colossi of Memnon?
A few minutes by car. Visit both on the same morning.
